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Post by The Cell on Oct 28, 2011 19:14:49 GMT -5
The plan is to use a Hybrid Aquaculture Hydroponic System for the Grape Vineyard, this thread is for information, progress, and feedback...
the Mgmt.
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Post by The Cell on Oct 28, 2011 19:17:22 GMT -5
Growing Organic Grapes Published on September 9, 2011 by Darryl Mott · No Comments Grapes are grown for either consuming directly or for wine-making/ jelly making etc. It is a very diverse fruit. It is classified under two categories- Table grape and Wine grape. Both these types are in huge demand all over the globe. Grapes come in more than 600 varieties and it is important to understand which variety will suit your requirements.
Growing grapes is a tedious task and it requires optimal environmental conditions along with all nutritional supplements. These days, to avoid all the detailed work, farmers inject growth hormones in to the plant to get large, juicy grapes. But these grapes are neither tasty nor nutritious. They just look delicious. Also, because of increased use of inorganic fertilizers and chemical pesticides, quality of grapes gets highly affected. Pesticides tend to leave residue on grapes and they are not washed away easily with water.
To avoid all the aforementioned problems, grape growers and wine-makers now want to grow organic grapes. Growing grapes organically means using minimal or no artificial, chemical and inorganic fertilizers/ pesticides. Instead natural fertilizers like green manure, seaweed or kelp, Bat guano etc are used to enrich soil with nutrients. Processed organic fertilizers like compost, bone meal, humic acid etc can do wonders to your soil. Such fertilizers have no ill-effect on soil. Grapes are highly susceptible to fungal attack. Organic pest control like Neem Oil works great in curbing fungal growth. Other grape pests like aphids or flies can be controlled with the help of garlic barrier, rotenone etc.
Organic grapes when grown hydroponically give great yield. Hydroponics means growing plants without soil in a water based nutrient media. To grow organic grapes hydroponically, you can use transplants from a fully grown grape vine. Insert roots of transplant in to an inert growth medium such as perlite, coconut coir or rockwool. Cover them with clear plastic dome and keep the set up in direct sunlight. Grapes grow well with the help of ebb and flow hydroponic method.
Although hydroponics growing is considered as one of the most sterile methods of growing plants, still there are chances of pests and diseases infecting the grow room. There are pests like botrytis, verticillium, fusarium and cladosporium that can affect your plants and insects like cutworms, caterpillars, leaf miners, spider mites, whiteflies and fungus gnats that can destroy your plants. Therefore, it’s very important to maintain healthy growing atmosphere for your hydroponic plants to avoid any disease. Act quickly if you see any kind of discrepancy in the structure of your plants as this might indicate pests.
Growing big and delicious grapes without having to deal with messy soil is now a reality. Hydroponic gardening gives you freedom from the dirt and muck and other numerous hindrances associated commonly with gardening. Hydroponic gardening is a more effective method of growing your crops; you feed your plants with what they need. Moreover, these organic grapes are healthier and have more nutritional value than the grapes which are grown with the help of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Even organic wine (wine processed organically from natural grapes) has gained better acceptance worldwide. So go ahead, grow your own organic grapes without worrying about ill-effects of artificial compounds.
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Post by The Cell on Oct 28, 2011 19:38:41 GMT -5
DIY Hydroponic Grapes By Cindy Quarters, eHow Contributor Grapes will grow in a hydroponic system, provided they are well-supported and get an adequate flow of nutrients. The container for growing grapes must be large enough to hold the mature plant and arranged so the weight of the plant and fruit won’t tip it over. A good hydroponic growing system for grapes is an ebb-and-flow system. This system fills the planter nearly full of liquid nutrients several times a day and then drains the liquid so the plant roots can get air.
Things You'll Need (Tap on items you have) Plastic storage bin with lid, at least 18 qt. 5-gallon bucket Submersible pump ½-inch hose or tubing Fiberglass screen, 3-by-3 inches Caulking, food-grade Hose clip Drill with ½-inch bit Timer Perlite Clay pellets or silica stones (optional) Nutrient solution Grape vine transplant Steps (Tap on step to mark as complete) 1 of 7 Drill a 1/2-inch hole in the bottom of the bucket. Fit in a short section of the hose. Caulk around it to prevent leaks and allow it to dry for at least 24 hours. This will allow the nutrient liquid to drain back into the reservoir. Step 1 2 of 7 Make two ½-inch holes in one end of the plastic storage bin, near the top. The holes will allow both the cord from a submersible pump and a filler hose to pass out of the reservoir while the lid is on. Drill a ½-inch hole in the lid of the bin to allow the drain hose access to the bin. This bin will be the nutrient reservoir. Step 2 3 of 7 Place a piece of screen over the drain hole to prevent perlite from leaking out. Fill the bucket with perlite. Add a thick layer of clay pellets or silica stones at the bottom to give it some weight. Be sure to use new, sterile pellets, stones and perlite to avoid contaminating the hydroponic system. Step 3 4 of 7 Plant the grape vine in the perlite to the depth recommended on the plant tag. Be sure the plant is secure in the perlite. Place the bucket on a shelf or table in a sunny location next to a trellis, arbor, fence or netting where you can secure the grape vine as it grows. Step 4 5 of 7 Set the reservoir in a spot lower than the planting bucket. Attach a filler hose to a submersible pump and place the pump in the reservoir. Run both the pump's power cord and the hose out of the reservoir through the holes in the end. Fill the container about two-thirds full of nutrient solution. Put the lid on it. Step 5 6 of 7 Fit the plant bucket’s drain hose into the hole in the reservoir lid. Bring the filler hose up from the reservoir and clip it securely to the inside of the bucket’s rim. Step 6 7 of 7 Set the timer to run three or four times per day, just long enough to fill the bucket to about an inch from the tip of the perlite. Plug the pump into the time and plug the timer into an outlet to complete your setup for growing hydroponic grapes. Step 7 Tips & Warnings You can use a splitter on the filler hose and grow two grape vines instead of one or you can fill one bucket and let it flow into another container before it drains back into the reservoir. This lets you increase yield while using a single pump and reservoir. Protect all electrical connections from contact with water to prevent shock and fire hazard. Change the nutrient solution completely every two weeks; the recirculated liquid will not be good longer than that.
the mgmt.
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Post by The Cell on Oct 28, 2011 20:53:47 GMT -5
Hydroponics vineyards can exist in several configurations, depending on space, and personal preference. The ultimate objective is to provide a balance of food and oxygen to the roots. Here, the roots are suspended in 5 gallon pails filled with nutrient rich solution, oxygenated by an air pump.
The lower trunk of the cabernet franc vines are fixed in a basket of rocks for stability while the roots dangle beneath the basket, in the oxygenated nutrient solution. A stopper on each reservoir allows access to check and maintain nutrient pH, water level, and EC (eclectrical conductivity) of nutrients.
One air pump can oxygenate two vines. The pump is sealed in a pail with power supply and an output hose to each vine. All lines and hoses are calked against rain and moisture. The center right-angle elbow and grommet provide air intake for the pump.
The lower trunk of the cabernet franc vines are fixed in a basket of rocks for stability while the roots dangle beneath the basket, in the oxygenated nutrient solution. A stopper on each reservoir allows access to check and maintain nutrient pH, water level, and EC (eclectrical conductivity) of nutrients.
Nutrient solutions are changed every 10--14 days. Changing nutrient solution involves simply lifting the vine assembly off the nutrient reservoir, discard the old solution (excellent natural nutrition for yard plants, garden or grass), refill the reservoir with fresh nutrient and replace the vine.
At seasons end, after harvest, the vines are allowed to go dormant with the cool weather. Before temperatures fall below freezing, the entire vineyard can be dismantled and packed away in two containers, while the vines are wrapped and refrigerated over winter at a temperature between 32--40 F.
the mgmt
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Post by The Cell on Oct 28, 2011 21:09:45 GMT -5
Growing Grapes One of the first cultivated fruits, there are written descriptions of growing grapes and making wine dating back thousands of years. Grapes have the reputation of being fragile and difficult to grow. In fact, many backyard gardeners are convinced that they are too tender to even consider trying to grow them, yet a variety of species will do well in regions of every state and in several Canadian provinces. Once established, well-tended grapevines can be productive for 40 years or more.
Site Preparation: All types of grapes require a warm planting site in full sun, moderate water and pruning during the dormant season to control growth and produce abundant fruit. Consult with a nursery professional to select a variety that will do well in your area. The soil at the planting site should be loose, rich and deep. The roots of grape vines go deep into the earth. Amend to a depth of 24 - 36" with organic compost to improve existing soil.
Tip: To lessen the chance for disease, make sure drying breezes are not obstructed by fences, shrubs or buildings.
How to Plant: Grapes grow easily from cuttings. Select a healthy stem about 2 feet long with at least 4 buds. Place the cutting in fast draining, sandy soil in a location with full sun. Two buds should be below the ground and two above. The bottom half of the cutting should be dipped in rooting hormone. Early spring is the best time to plant from cuttings.
Plant from nursery stock by digging a hole as deep as the container in fast draining, sandy soil. Prior to planting, soak the roots in compost tea for 20 minutes and dust roots with a mixture of 2 cups of kelp and 1 cup of bone meal. When planting make sure that the top 1" of the root ball sits above the surface to prevent sucker growth from the graft. Space the plants 6 - 8' apart.
Water young grape vines for the first two years during the summer. Water deeply and infrequently to encourage deep root growth.
Provide support for mature grape vines in the form of a trellis or fence. Vines can be trained to cover arbors and gazebos.
Apply organic fertilizers rich in nitrogen two weeks after planting. Reapply annually in early spring, right before growth starts. Do not apply nitrogen later in the season, as it will delay ripening, inhibit coloring, and subject vines to winter injury. Four to six inches of mulch may be applied to help control weeds and conserve soil moisture.
Tip: For a greater harvest, plant grapes in raised beds or individual raised hills.
Pruning Grape Vines: All grapes produce fruit on one-year old wood. That means that the growth produced during the previous year will produce fruit for the coming season.
After planting, do no pruning at all during the first full year. Having abundant stems and leaves will help develop a strong root system on immature grape vines.
The second year, select the strongest and most vigorous stem that developed during the first growing season. Remove everything else from the plant as close to the base as possible. Stake the one remaining stem to provide support. This stem will become the main trunk of the vine. Pinch the top of the main stem to encourage side growth.
After the second year, select two of the best looking stems that are growing horizontally from the main trunk. Ideally they should be on opposite sides and about the same height on the trunk. Remove all other side growth. By the end of the second year, you should have a plant that looks like a 'T'. This is now the basic frame of the vine.
In following years, growth will form on the arms of the 'T'. Leave 10 - 12 buds along each arm and remove all other growth along the main trunk. The buds will produce fruit and every year thereafter should be pruned down to 1 or 2 new buds on each of twelve on the 'T'.
Simply put: First year, no pruning. Second year, create a 'T'. Third year, allow the top of each 'T' to form 12 buds. Fourth year +, prune the 12 buds down to 1 - 2 new buds during the dormant season.
Harvesting: Do not pick grapes until ripe. They will not ripen further after harvest. Most varieties should be picked in bunches when all of the grapes in the cluster are fully colored, sweet and slide off easily. Other varieties, like muscadine berries, should be spot-picked, because they do not ripen evenly.
Insects and Diseases: Grapes are susceptible to a large number of insect and disease pests. Select disease tolerant cultivars when possible and utilize good sanitation practices. Monitor grapes closely and if problems occur, treat early with organic or natural pest controls.
Note: Birds can be a major pest. The only sure method of protection is placing netting over the vines.
the mgmt
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